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Oahu - Ditching Our Tour of the Arizona for Waikiki Beach!

6/6/2013

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Even a history nut like me can have a moment when you just need to escape your own plan.

I really hate to put down a cruise excursion when I was really looking forward to it, but in this case, you really need to know the truth. 

We had signed up for an excursion to the WWII monument the Arizona, and we were really looking forward to it, but when we exited the ship, and entered the huge terminal, we joined a line of almost 800 people.  This long, long, line inched along for 45 minutes while bus after bus left for the same place and slowly, realization dawned.

How in the world can the small memorial out in the harbor, accessible only by small boats accommodate all these people? 

Jim had been to the memorial before and knew that  since the boats that transport people to the memorial are small, that it would take hours just to get onto the Arizona.  Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE history, but even I would not spend my day standing in line with other cruise passengers waiting to a glimpse of the memorial. 

Now this is important……. Our recommendation is, if you want to visit the memorial, get off the ship at the earliest time allowed, catch a taxi and go to the monument on your own.  It will be well worth the effort and will actually save you money and will also save you from wasting your day!  After your visit, head into Honolulu and enjoy Waikiki beach and shopping.

So……. Jim and I looked at each other and both of us knew instantly that after waiting 45 minutes already, we were going to ditch the line, catch a taxi and head into Honolulu to explore Waikiki beach and the shops.  We felt such guilty freedom as we sped in our taxi toward the city, but big smiles of relief were on our faces.

Waikiki is wonderful.  The beach and its tall palms, warm blue water and view of Diamond Head are beautiful and it’s really fun to watch people learning to paddle board, surf, and canoe on outriggers.  The long outriggers particularly give the scene a Hawaiian feel.

After a walk on the beach, we decided to check out the kiosks and shops at the International Market Place, where you can find the typical tourist souvenirs, but where we also found a gentleman carving Tikis out of local Hawaiian wood.  They were beautifully carved and it was fun to be able to purchase work from a local artisan.


While the marketplace is filled with items that won’t cost you a fortune, if you want to shop upscale, just walk across the street to the posh hotels like the Moana Surfrider Hotel or the Outrigger Hotel.  The shops are filled with high-end art, and beautiful but expensive jewelry and clothing.  I must admit, it was tempting to step into the shops, but Jim was already headed toward Duke’s Canoe Club which is located in the Outrigger Hotel and opens out onto the beach.



Duke’s is decorated in true tiki-bar style, transporting you to island fantasy with soft Hawaiian tunes and thatched roof bar overlooking the beach.  The ice cold Mai-Tais come in glass tiki-shaped goblets with huge chunks of pineapple and a bright umbrella.  Be careful though, they definitely have a kick!  Jim opted for a tasting of Hawaiian beers.  Duke's has an extensive menu of Hawaiian inspired food and loved standards like juicy Angus Beef Cheddar Burgers, which was Jim's choice.  I opted for the most delicious Mahi Mahi Fish Tacos with Cajun dressing and pico de gallo.  I have to admit, we spent at least a couple hours munching, sipping and watching the action on beach while the breeze cooled us. 

The restaurant is named after one of Hawaii’s most important citizens, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, born in Honolulu in 1890 and grew up on Waikiki beach, swimming, surfing and canoeing.  Representing the U.S., during three separate Olympic Games, he won four Gold Medals and one Silver Medal in swimming and went on to introduce surfing to New Zealand and Australia.  He acted in 28 movies and made surfing popular in California.  He is remembered not just for remarkable speed as a swimmer, but for his grace in the water, his good humor, and his sportsmanship. 

It’s fun to think you are hanging out on the same beach Duke enjoyed!

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Excursion to Historic Kauai - Grove Farm & Kauai Plantation Railway

6/4/2013

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Yes excursions can be fun even for those who don’t regularly opt for tours!

When researching excursions for Kauai, Jim let me pick one that I would be interested in even though that meant that we would NOT be visiting the locations used by movies such as Jurassic Park, would NOT be snorkeling, kayaking, zip-lining, taking a river cruise up the Waialua River, tubing, relaxing at the beach……… or any of the other amazing excursions offered for the day.

No, my choice was typical to my love (bordering on obsession maybe) for history.  We joined a small group of about two dozen other history nuts for a trip to Grove Farm and the Kauai Plantation Railway. Fortunately for my “tour-picking” reputation, I don’t regret this choice in the least!  

This plantation provides one of the last authentic experiences of Kauai’s sugar cane heritage.  It was really interesting and we learned a lot about life on a Hawaiian Island plantation and the short steam engine railway ride was a lot of fun.


Grove Farm was originally a Sugar Plantation.  It was one of the first sugar plantations in Hawaii when it was started by a German immigrant named Hermann Widermann in 1854.  He literally chopped down a grove of kukui trees to make room for his creation, so he named his plantation Grove Farm. 

In 1864 he leased the plantation to George Norton Wilcox who later purchased the plantation.  It remained in the Wilcox family for over 100 years.

It is believed that sugar cane, along with other foods, was introduced to Hawaii by Polynesians when they sailed to the islands about 1,000 years ago, but they didn’t process the sugar, they chewed on the cane. European and American Immigrants began building plantations and processing the sugar for export in 1825.  With the introduction of irrigation, the plantations flourished.

Hawaiian sugar plantations became particularly successful during the U.S. Civil War which shut off access to and eventually destroyed many of the South’s sugar crops.


We toured the beautiful old home and its guest houses, where the family and their guests would spend time socializing.  The main estate house has two bedrooms, writing room, two bathrooms, and a library on the first floor. A grand staircase leads up to the second floor which has more bedrooms.

Behind the main house is a hexagonal gazebo styled after a Japanese teahouse, built in 1898. To the south is a guest cottage with two living areas from about 1890. Another single story cottage was built in 1877 for George Wilcox, and an office building was built in 1884.  The kitchen and laundry are both located in detached cottages near the main house to prevent them heating up the house. 

When Charles Dickey was hired to renovate the main house in 1915, he knocked down walls and opened up spaces.  He felt that it was important to allow the trade winds to circulate through the house and built wide projecting eves so that windows could be kept open even when it was raining.  This style was copied throughout the islands and became known as the “Hawaiian style home”. 


Workers on the plantation occupied a row of tiny homes also built by Dickey.  These homes were considered very nice for a plantation worker of that era.  The small group of homes was called Kaipu Camp.  “Kaipu” was the word for a Chinese foreman at the plantation.  Most workers were Chinese immigrants trying to make a better life in Kauai.

Grove farm is an active farm museum.  We walked through the vegetable garden and admired the view of the island valley from the shady back porch, kept company by one of the many, many cats on the plantation.  These cats even lounged in the chicken coups and pens, friends for life with the many roosters and hens!

Groves of banana trees lined the dirt roads next to horse pastures, but only remnants of the cane fields survive.  There are no active cane plantations existing on Kauai any longer.

After a very thorough tour, we boarded our vans again and sped off to the Kauai Plantation Railway for a train tour of the plantation. 


We soon boarded our old-timey open air car which was pulled by an authentic 1939 diesel engine similar to those used on Hawaiian Plantations (they are currently restoring two historic plantation steam engines for future use).  Our young tour guide was very knowledgeable and his sense of humor animated what could have been an information heavy tour. 

We trundled by coconut palms, cane fields, banana groves, rain forests and many tropical plants that I will never remember, but were pretty amazing at the time  while learning about the fascinating botany and agricultural history of Kauai. 

My favorite part of the train tour was our stop at the “Farmyard”.  We were greeted by wild pigs, goats, and tiny newly hatched chicks being frantically herded by their moms.  I began to believe that the “Wild” label might be a stretch as the pigs sidled up to the fence where we were encouraged to feed them and their greedy pen-mates, the goats.  I have to admit, it was pretty cute watching Jim try to keep his fingers out of the way when one of the pigs eagerly pushed his snout forward to munch a piece of bread!

By the time the train dropped us back at the lovely Kilohana Plantation House, we were ready for some liquid refreshment, so we headed inside the mansion to Gaylord’s Restaurant at Kilo Hana.  Built in 1936 by sugar baron Gaylord Parke Wilcox, the mansion at Kilohana is the finest example of plantation era architecture in Hawaii.

The restaurant itself has a beautiful tropical courtyard area where you can enjoy a relaxing meal of fresh island cuisine (much of it grown on the island), but since we were interested in a colorful tropical Mai-Tai with a juicy chunk of pineapple perched on the rim, we walked on through to the Mahiko Lounge.  The lovely bar area is decorated in early 20th century island style.  It felt like Hemmingway could walk in any minute! 

Refreshed, we peeked into a few of the mansion rooms which have original plantation furnishing and décor.  You will find tiny boutiques and art for sale tucked into several of the rooms. 


This excursion was lots of fun, proving that if you are in the mood for a tour a cruise excursion can be the way to go.  There is an excursion for just about every interest! 

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Not in the Mood for a Guided Tour?  Wandering in Kona Hawaii

5/31/2013

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This island of great beauty is home to the historic town of Kona, where King Kamehameha spent his last years between 1813 and 1819.   You can’t miss the two most interesting historical structures in Kona since they are right on the main walking/shopping route along the beach shoreline.

The Island’s Governor, Kuakini, built the large salmon colored Hulihee Palace in 1837.  It would later become King David Kalakaua’s Summer Palace in the 1880’s and is filled with interesting artifacts.  The palace isn’t open on Sunday’s, so sadly, we only got to see the outside of the palace.

On the up side….. being in port on a Sunday allowed for me to peek in on the service being held in the first western church in islands.  The church is called Mokuaikuau, and was built between 1823 and 1827 in the New England Congregational style with a white steeple towering over thick stone walls mortared with coral.  The interior posts and beams are hand-hewn ohia wood brought down from the slopes of Mauna Loa and are fitted together with ohia pins.

Be sure to check out the Kona Farmers Market when you are in port.  It is open from Wednesday through Sunday.  You will have a blast wandering through the stalls admiring the delicate orchids, rows of fresh pineapples and other tropical fruits, colorful leis, lots of hand-made arts and of course the requisite tourist souvenirs.  Don’t forget to buy some freshly roasted and salted macadamia nuts!

After strolling through the many shops along the main road, you will need to rest up with a nice cool drink and a snack.   I know you don’t want to hear this, but we stopped for a drink at Bubba Gump’s!  This is almost sacrilege to a savvy traveler, but believe, me the view is worth it.  You can relax and watch the waves crash over the lava rocks just a few yards away from where you are sitting.

But Bubba Gump’s was just a starting point!  We also tried out the view from Rosa’s Cantina, where you can sit upstairs on the balcony and munch on chips and guacamole while a very stiff breeze cools you off.

We finally ended up deciding upon the Zagat rated Kona Inn for Lunch where we had huge shrimp cocktails and salad with giant sweet Maui onions on the shady veranda.  Again…….the view of the sparkling sea and rocky lava coast where waves lapped and crashed trapped in the lava fissures our ship a distant white whale on the waiting on the horizon.


We were tipped off that you could visit the Kona Brewing Company, so we walked over to take a quick look but didn’t have time to go in.   You beer fans….. Be sure to check out the tour times if you would like to see the inner workings, but you can always just sample their creations in the attached pub!  

Kailua-Kona (the local name) is a fun place to visit even if you don’t take one of the many amazing excursions the ship offers at this port, so if you are looking forward to just wandering around shopping, eating and having a drink or two.  We can highly recommend that approach!  


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