Category: Switzerland

Three Castles in Bellinzona Switzerland - A UNESCO World Heritage Site - Part 3 - Castello di Montebello

8/16/2015

Castello di Montebello, the last castle on our tour, is located to the east of the town center. It was built before 1313 for the pro-Holy Roman Emperor, Rusca family, who occupied the castle even after the Visconti victory and occupation of Castelgrande. By 1491 Castello di Montebello was also in the hands of the Dukes of Milan.

Unlike Castelgrande high above the town center, Castello di Montebello, was not protected by natural features. It is surrounded by deep moats that protected the walls. It consists of a 13th century Keep and a 15th century residential palace. This fortress is the most complex of Bellinzona’s three castles. The walls which link Castello di Montebello to the town of Bellinzona to the east and Castelgrande to the west created a formidable defense system.

An arrowhead shaped barbican was added to the east of the moat and was protected by another moat and machicolated battlements on the north side.

The Inner Keep dates from before 1313 and is an irregular rectangle. The Keep was built with a high, strong outer wall with living quarters and utility buildings along the inner wall.

The well in the inner eastern bailey may be from the original castle.

In 1499 nearly one and a half centuries of Milanese rule ended with the invasion of Milan by Louis XII of France. He captured Bellinzona and fearing an attack by the Swiss, fortified Castelgrande with 1000 troops. In January of 1500 an armed revolt of the citizens of Bellinzona drove the French troops from the city. Following the capture of Ludovica Sforza in April 1500 and seeking protection from France, Bellinzona joined the Swiss Confederation.

The little chapel, dedicated to Saint Michael that leans against the wall of a south-facing section of the inner fortress, was built around 1600 under the rule of the Swiss Cantons.

A Museum located inside the Keep contains Archeological and Historical exhibits including items from 1400–1500 B.C. as well as ceramics, glassware, ornamental objects and jewelry in iron and bronze from around the canton. The museum also displays several stone capitals from the 15th century and ceremonial and military weapons.

Jim and I decided to walk back down to the Old Town and as we descended the steep stone path, we had an appreciation for the defensive location of the impressive Castello di Montebello. The perfect end to our tour of the amazing UNESCO World Heritage stone fortress castles of Bellinzona!

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Three Castles in Belinzona Switzerland - A UNESCO World Heritage Site - Part 2 - Castello di Sasso Corbaro

8/16/2015

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Castello di Sasso Corbaro is the youngest of Bellinzona’s three fortresses and unlike the other two castles, it is not integrated into Bellinzona’ city walls so we boarded the cute little train that drives a route past the medieval city walls and headed out to the hillside castle.

The first part of the castle was built in 1478 on order by the Duke of Milan in order to protect the Ticino area. The north-eastern tower was constructed to close a gap in the defenses of the city.

The tower has vast views across Ticino Valley all the way to Lake Maggiore. In 1479 a small garrison was moved to the tower and during peacetime it was used as a prison. The walls and south-west tower were added later.

The north-eastern Keep currently has four stories, though no records exist of its original height and roof. It was used as a living area when the castle was occupied. It now houses a museum displaying temporary exhibits. The two story gabled buildings on the south and west walls were living quarters.

Interestingly, the Sala Emma Poglia which is the "wooden room" built for the Emma family during the 17th century and is the only room displaying any domestic decor. The room is paneled entirely in walnut and also includes the stüva, stove which provided heating. The stove bears the crest of the Emma family (an eagle and a lion). The room was moved to the castle from its original location in town. This seemed an odd addition to the castle museums, but was fun to see and might be an indication of how some of the castle rooms might originally appeared.

The castle chapel is located on the eastern side of the courtyard creating a lovely view for the patio of the Osteria.

We chose to have lunch in the small courtyard of the Osteria Castello Sasso Corbaro. The restaurant provided an afternoon fine dining experience in the shade of grape vines and castle towers and it was lovely. It is not inexpensive, but the food was wonderful and the service was very nice. We enjoyed a relaxing meal before catching the train and proceeding to the last castle in our UNESCO World Heritage Castle Tour.

Click here to Go to Part 3 - Castello di Montebello

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Three Castles in Bellinzona - A UNESCO World Heritage Site - Part 1 - Castelgrande

8/16/2015

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Bellinzona has always occupied an important geographic location in the Swiss Alps where several key Alpine pass routes including the Nufenen, St. Gotthard, Lukmanier and San Bernardino meet. These passes connect northern to southern Europe and all converge in the area around Bellinzona making it a key trading center and from Roman times, it has been a fortress town.

In the Middle Ages, the Dukes of Milan (the Visconti) built three castles in Bellinzona enabling them to defend the strategically placed town and control traffic passing through the valley and over the passes. The castles (Castelgrande, Castello di Montebello and Castello di Sasso Corbaro) were designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2000.

above photo credit Tobyc75 via Wikimedia

You can visit all three of the castles in one day via a small cartoon-like train which you can hop-on and hop-off at each castle allowing you to spend some time at each castle or simply take a few pictures and move on to the next one. The train stops for about 15-20 minutes at each castle and the timetables are posted. None of the castles are furnished which was a little disappointing. Instead, they house a variety of interesting Museums.

We chose to walk up to the first castle, Castelgrande, which is perched on a high plateau above the Old Town and is the oldest of the three castles. This cliff-like perch helped protect the castle. A lift is also available for those who don’t want to walk up the many stairs.

In the early Middle Ages, Holy Roman Emperor Otto III gave the important town of Bellinzona to the Bishop of Como in gratitude for his support, and in the 12th century, the Bishops of Como rebuilt and expanded the Roman fortress. During the following century, Bellinzona and Castelgrande passed back and forth between forces allied with either the Holy Roman Emperor or the Pope.

After 1242, the Dukes of Milan rebuilt and enlarged the fortress again upon the foundation of the old Roman structure after they conquered the castle in support of the Pope.

Records from the 11th to 15th centuries as well as archeological evidence indicate that the Castelgrande grounds were once full of buildings. However most of these were pulled down by the Dukes of Milan to free up interior space. The open space was divided into 3 large baileys (courtyards) which served to provide temporary housing for troops that could be stationed in Bellinzona.

Castelgrande’s main features are the Torre Bianca (White Tower) and the Torre Nera (Black Tower) joined by crenellated walls which encircle the inner baily.

A museum inside the castle documents the history of Bellinzona and there is also a display of 15th century painted panels. A separate museum space houses contemporary exhibits.

The castle also has a terrace bar/restaurant which has the most magnificent views of Bellinzona and the Ticino Valley and in my opinion is the best location for outdoor dining in Bellinzona. But we didn't have time for a break yet. We were on to our next UNESCO World Heritage Castle!

Click here to Go to Part 2 - Castello di Sasso Corbaro

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Hotel & Spa Internazionale Bellinzona -Modern Comfort-Relaxing Spa and UNESCO Heritage!

8/13/2015

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When I read that the town of Bellinzona in southern Switzerland, which is the capital of the canton of Ticino, hosts three UNESCO Heritage Site Castles, I knew we had to go there. The castles, which grace the hillsides and hilltops of Bellinzona with their impressive gray crenelated walls and tall fortress towers, can be seen from the small historic town center.

The town lies east of the Ticino River, along the river valley and is surrounded by the southern ranges of the Lepontine Alps to the east and west, and by the Lugano Pre-alps to the south. The entrance to the Italian Lake District and the city of Lugano lie across the border to the south of Bellinzona. This proximity to Italy makes the Ticino area distinctly Italian in culture and orientation and you almost feel as if you have left Switzerland for Italy.

Hotel & Spa Internazionale Bellinzona, was the hotel we chose for our stay in this beautiful Swiss-Italian town.

The Hotel & Spa Internazionale Bellinzona is housed in a historic building built in 1909 and is conveniently located across from the railway station, but we were driving so the nearby hotel parking with direct entrance into the hotel was particularly welcome. Parking reservations are required.

above photo source

When we entered the hotel, we were warmly welcomed by the staff. You definitely get the feel of a spa-resort in the lobby with its artistic, modern décor and display of spa, hair and body products. Knowing that I would be checking out the facilities, I picked up my robe and slippers at the desk.

Our fifth floor suite turned out to be colorful and modern.

The large suite was comprised of two stories with a sitting room downstairs and a large bedroom with a second sitting area upstairs. The bed was very comfortable and clean and fresh. You felt like you were tucked up cozy into the rafters of the historic hotel.

I was thrilled to see there was a bathroom on each floor which worked out perfectly for us. Jim took the one downstairs which had a shower, and I got the ensuite bathroom upstairs with its big luxurious bathtub. One of my favorite hotel amenities are separate baths! The bathrooms were well designed, modern and sparkling clean.

Downstairs Bathroom

Upstairs Bathroom

Another favorite hotel perk is an expresso (Nespresso) machine and this room had one, so I was able to indulge my expresso addiction!

The suite had a small balcony which is really only for standing and enjoying the view, but let me tell you….The view was gorgeous! First thing each morning, I stepped out and took in the fresh air and sunny view of the Castle Grande and Bellinzona the charming town nestled at the foot of the Alps. What a perfect way to start the day!

After settling into our room, we checked with the reception staff and they pointed out restaurants, sites and directions to the town square. The town is quite small, so it didn’t take us very long to memorize these directions!

The hotel is well located for walking the historic center of Bellinzona and visiting all of its sites. We happened to be there on market day, so the square was populated with colorful stalls with vendors selling locally made crafts, foods and produce, fashion and accessories. The whole town was out enjoying the beautiful day!

Breakfast in the small breakfast room was tasty and efficient, providing the typical abundance of choices for a Continental Breakfast. The restaurant which is attached to the hotel is as modern as the rest of the property and that evening when we stopped by for a glass of wine to take to our room, was busy with a young lively crowd. We did not eat dinner at the hotel, so we really can’t comment about its food, but it looked good going by us on trays!

above photos source

After a busy day of visiting the UNESCO Heritage Castles, I tried out a few of the spa facilities. Relaxing in the sauna and then the hot tub were exactly what my aching shoulder needed after a day of carrying my heavy camera equipment. I wish I had had time for a massage…..

We definitely enjoyed staying at the Hotel & Spa Internationale Bellinzona; the suite and spa facilities were very nice, the location was great and the staff was professional and welcoming. A great starting point for any visit to Bellinzona Switzerland!

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How We Tried to Cross The Swiss Alps in May and Mother Nature Smacked Us Down!

8/9/2015

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Sometimes Mother Nature has to throw curve balls into what would otherwise be a well-planned trip. This is simply the way life works and this time, Jim and I got caught up in one of her more obstinate moments.

Therefore; this post is all about “How We Tried to Cross the Alps in May and Mother Nature Smacked Us Down!”

The plan……. (Black Line)
Leave Thun and head east and then south over the Alps using the Susten Pass and St. Goddard Pass, stopping at the lovely little alpine town of Andermatt and then on south to our planned destination in southern Switzerland, the Unesco Heritage Site of Bellinzona. This seemed a perfect plan with potential for fabulous views inside the Alps.

The reality……. (Blue Line)
Note to self….. always obey your GPS.

The month of May can be a tricky travel month in Switzerland. We had already had a week of warm sunny days bordering on downright hot, and of course we assumed this would continue through the entire trip, ignoring the fact that many times when we travel in Europe in May it has poured chilly rain. We also ignored the fact that we knew the Alpine passes can be closed in May, depending upon the weather.

With these two strikes against us, we stepped out of our hotel into a morning where the temperature had crazily dropped 40 degrees from the day before and what seemed like a monsoon was producing a deluge of rain. Our GPS was blinking a warning at the top of the screen “Passes Closed”. We convinced ourselves this did not mean “our passes” and headed off toward the Alps.

How can veteran travelers do such a dumb thing? It depends upon how much you REALLY want to do something and we REALLY wanted to drive over the Alps. Well…. I did anyway. To give Jim credit, he was already worrying that I was pushing us into a less than optimal situation.

Note to self….. Sometimes listen to your husband. Occasionally they are right.

As we ascended into the foothills of the Alps, fog and mist enveloped us draping and blanketing the views we anticipated and made the wet tightly curving, cliffhanging roads treacherous. This didn’t stop us.

We headed up, up, up and the rain turned to sleet. Yes, I’m sure you can imagine the conversation…..

Jim “I think we should turn around”

Me “No, this isn’t so bad. We can get over the pass.”

Jim “The sign we just passed says “pass closed”

Me “That’s not OUR pass. That’s a different pass and we’re not taking that road”

GPS Blinking “Passes Closed”

On we drove, with both of us very tense as we slowly wound our way further up the mountain. Soon the sleet turned to thick snow-flakes.

Me “it’s so beautiful!”

Jim “the car is beginning to slip”

Me “we can make it”

The car slides dangerously to the cliffside of the road.

Me “this is making me really scared”

Jim “we are turning around NOW”

Me “where? The road isn’t wide enough”

OK, I’ll admit, at this point I was really panicking, but the Travel Gods were with us and out of the snowy distance appeared a dirt road which exited our road, giving us just enough room to turn around. Relief flooded us and so defeated, we headed back down to the nearest town.

Now the real challenge arose because we had no idea where to go next. As far as we knew, there was absolutely NO WAY to get over the Alps to Bellinzona, where our next hotel awaited us.

Luckily for us, a small café offered us a place to calm down, have a coffee and grill the lone café worker as to how to proceed to our destination. I think I fell in love just out of relief that she turned out to be incredibly knowledgeable and mapped out our route on our smeared, crumpled, dog-eared map. (Blue Line)

The really bad news was that we had to head north quite a distance to Luzern, then east all the way to Lichtenstein and then south over the lowest pass at the eastern edge of the Alps, which thankfully was still open. This grand detour around the Alps added an additional 250 kilometers to our drive. Traveler stupidity always has a high price!

One ray of light in this adventure was that Jim was able to visit Lichtenstein, which due to time constraints had been left out of our itinerary. Maybe his karma was always intended to make sure he got there?

Jim's goal for the trip...... Eat at McDonald's in Lichtenstein. Mission accomplished!

Oh…. And those views…..
Even though the San Bernardino Pass does not have extreme peaks that reach the heavens and villages perched high on alpine slopes as do the higher passes, we experienced some pretty spectacular vistas.

We finally made to to sunny Bellinzona on the other side of the Alps and as you can probably guess, The storm disappeared as quickly as it arrived and the weather was warm and beautiful from that point on. Typical May in Europe.

As usual, it was the road never planned that added unexpected fabulous beauty to this road-trip in Switzerland. I just love it when this happens!

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Schloss Thun - Watching over the Medieval town of Thun for Centuries

8/4/2015

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When you visit Thun, Switzerland, you quickly become aware that wherever you are in the lovely town beside the Thunersee, you can see the shining white turrets of Thun Castle, high up on the Schlossberg (Castle Hill). Seeing the fairy-tale architecture wherever we went in Thun made us even more excited to explore the castle, so we headed up the long stairway which climbs the hill and then followed the cobbled lane that leads you to the castle entrance.

The five floors of the Keep now house a historical museum highlighting the region's history, as well as temporary exhibitions on a variety of cultural, historical and current issues. Concerts and other public events are held in the Knight's Hall.

The area of what is now Thun was inhabited since the Neolithic age, and since the early Bronze Age there were a number of settlements along the lake shore and Aare River. The region of Thun became a part of the Holy Roman Empire in 1033. This is when the powerful Zähringer family, centered in Bern, brought the unruly nobles of central Switzerland under their control.

Information about the actual Barons of Thun is vague and they disappear from sources in the 13th century. There are two versions to how they lost the schlossberg and town. The first indicates that they lost Thun when defeated in battle by the Zähringers in 1190/91. The other version is based upon an arbitration agreement dated 1250 stating that they voluntarily handed over the castle and town to the Zähringers sometime in the middle of the 12th century.

The current castle was built at the end of the 12th century by Duke Berthold V of Zähringen, who constructed the Keep to the level of the Knights' Hall as an administrative center for the region he ruled.

The Knights’ Hall (The Great Hall) would not have been used as accommodation, but as a ceremonial hall for receiving guests, entertaining, and formal functions such as treaty or alliance negotiations, swearing oaths and declaring war.

In 1218, the last Zähringer died and the town and castle passed to the Counts of Kiburg, who allied themselves alternately with the Hapsburgs and the Bernese and called themselves “Neu”-Kiburg. In 1322, they strategically put themselves under the dominion of Berne.

Over the years, the Neu-Kiburg family continued to alternate their alliances and through purchases in 1375 and 1384, Berne managed to acquire all the rights over the town and castle of Thun. The Bernese invested great sums in the renovation maintenance and extension of Thun Castle.

The massive top floor of the Keep (1430-36) comes from the Bernese period. The Keep would not have stood alone, but the residential and administrative quarters of the west wing have been renovated, demolished and/or incorporated into later structures over the centuries.

The castle museum collection displays the history of Thun including historical artifacts from Medieval times through the turn of the 20th century.

Below: The Crescent Moon Madonna Tapestry. (1425 - 1440) Made in Basel Switzerland. Donated to Scherzlingen Church by Anna von Velschen, born in Thun, she was wife of Petermann von Krauchthal, who was mayor of Thun in 1396-1398 and mayor of Berne 1407-1418.

Below: Heraldic Tapestry, Burgundian (2nd half of 15th century) part of the Burgundian Spoils of War at the Battle of Grandson in 1476 in which many soldiers from Thun took part.

Below: Throne used by the Mayors of Thun, (1767) He was a member of the Bernese Great Council, appointed for six-year terms of office by Berne and also served as the bailiff of Thun.

Below: Fulehung Costume - Legend states that in 1476, after the Battle of Murten, the soldiers of Thun brought back the court jester of Charles the Bold as war booty. They chased him through the town and called him “Fulehung” (Lazy Dog). The character resurfaced in 1900 as the main person at the September festival called Ausschiesset, celebrating the end of the shooting season.

From 1565-1570, aimed at improving the living quarters of the mayor and the official rooms, the residences of the castle bailiffs and the Bernese mayors were renovated and an administrative and residential addition known as the New Castle was added to the west of the keep.

above photo only: "2011-07-23 Lago de Thun (Foto Dietrich Michael Weidmann) 509" by Dietrich Michael Weidmann - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

We were a little disappointed that the castle doesn’t offer any rooms furnished in the periods from the castle, but the museum exhibits were interesting and the architecture of the castle was in itself well worth visiting. Also, the views when you climb into the turrets of the Keep were absolutely stunning!

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Hotel Freienhof - Modern Swiss Comfort and Fabulous Views!

8/1/2015

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Hotel Freienhof located beside the River Aare in Thun Switzerland, is a blend of sophisticated design and modern Swiss resort decor.

When we arrived, we were warmly greeted by their friendly, professional staff. The hotel has an on-site parking garage of which we gladly took advantage. When we are on a road trip, a hotel that has on-site reserved parking is very important in making the decision about accommodation.

The lobby of the hotel is large, welcoming and casually comfortable and the terrace area outside the lobby entrance is also furnished with lounge furniture where you can relax beside the river.

above photo source

As you walk down the hall into the contemporary portion of the hotel where the rooms are, you immediately get a feeling that you are in an ultra-modern ski lodge. The décor is unfussy and minimalistic. Our original room was very nice, with a small balcony overlooking the river, and a large comfortable looking bed, but the room was a little on the small side, so Jim and I decided to upgrade to a suite; "The Panoramic Suite".

The staff was so accommodating and gracious, instantly taking us to see the suite when we asked to see it and then moving our suitcases from room to suite.

What an amazing choice the suite turned out to be! It was a modern two-bedroom apartment with staggering views! The lounge area was huge and the décor was stylish, with terraces of two sides that had amazing views of the historic center of Thun and its castle, the River Aare and the snow-covered Alps in the distance. We spent every evening out on the terrace sipping our drinks and soaking up the beautiful scene.

The suite had lots of windows and we opened all of them, letting in the fresh Alpine air in the mornings as we got ready for our day and in the evening as we relaxed after a busy day sightseeing. It was heaven!

above photo source

We were pleased to find that the bedroom and living area had separate televisions since Jim and I never like the same programs, and the master bed was very comfortable. The wonderful staff also found a fan for us because the weather was uncharacteristically hot and the hotel does not have air conditioning. They were truly fantastic!

above photo source

The bathroom was surprisingly tiny for such a large suite but it was sparkling clean and that is our most important criteria.

The second bedroom was good size and had a full bed, but we set up our laptop on a small table and used it as our temporary office giving us even more room in the rest of the suite. I’m afraid Jim and I are getting way too used to the luxury of having suites with lots of room for both of us!

The hotel lobby leads to the loveliest part of the hotel, the Freienhof Restaurant and ESCAPE bar. It is here that you find a sophisticated elegance. We bought some excellent glasses of wine and beer at the lovely bar, though eventually we were pulled back to our stunning suite with terrace views to finish our drinks.

We decided to have dinner on the Aare Terrace since the weather was so nice and were not disappointed. The cuisine at the Hotel Freienhof restaurant is definitely fine dining.

We began our meal with a small prosciutto appetizer. Jim ordered the “Hot Stone” Swiss beef entrecote which was perfectly cooked to his taste and I ordered the pork which was served three ways with deep rich sauce, accompanied by buttery ravioli.

The meal was delicious and made even better with a local beer, a wonderful red wine and a view of the Aare River and historic facades of Thun.

We were able to sample the hotel food again at breakfast inside the restaurant. Since we were at the hotel on a holiday weekend, we were delighted to see that they had an omelet station and champagne, but the fresh breads, pastries, cereals, meats, boiled eggs and cheeses, and of course the juices and coffee which are their standard fare were also very good and of excellent quality.

The Hotel Freienhof is conveniently located only a few minutes away from the historic center of Thun, lots of restaurants and bars, the castle and both the train station and ferry port. We took advantage of this to walk the old-town, visit Thun Castle and take a ferry tour of the beautiful Thunersee.

We highly recommend this hotel. Its location is perfect, the staff are fantastic and the Panoramic Suite has some of the best views in town. Our stay was wonderful!

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Beautiful Baroque Solothurn - A City Steeped in Switzerland's History

7/29/2015

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Have you ever heard of Solothurn? I hadn’t either, so when I was reading the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide (our favorite guidebook!) for Switzerland and learned that Solothurn is renowned as one of the most beautiful Baroque cities in Switzerland, I had to add it our itinerary and the lovely town definitely lives up to its reputation.

above photo credit: "Besenval stursen solothurn" by Ch-info.ch -
Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

We arrived on a market day and the old Baroque historic district was lively and filled with colorful market stalls. Towering over the busy Marktplatz (Market Square) is the Zytglogge (clock tower). It is Solothurn’s oldest surviving building. The lower part dates from the 12th century and its upper part from the 15th century. The astronomical clock was made in 1545 and a procession of mechanical figures including a Knight, Death and the King of Jesters parade when the clock strikes the hour.

Solothurn was founded by the Celts and later became the second-largest Roman town north of the Alps after Trier. The town was fortified many times during its history. The oldest walls surrounded a Roman camp and a later ring of walls, gates and towers were added in the Middle Ages. In the 16th century, the defenses were modernized and two additional gates and three towers were constructed.

Below: Basel Gate

During the Early Middle Ages, Solothurn was part of the Kingdom of Lotharingia (Lorraine). After 1033, it became part of the Holy Roman Empire under the Kingdom of Burgundy, and Emperor Conrad II held court at Solothurn. He crowned his son, Henry III, King of Burgundy there.

In 1127, Solothurn was acquired by the powerful dukes of Zähringen. After the extinction of the Zähringer line in 1218 it finally became a free imperial city under the Holy Roman Emperor.

above photo credit: "Solothurn Stumpf" by Johannes Stumpf - Gemeiner loblicher Eydgnoſchafft Stetten Landen vnd Völckeren Chronik wirdiger thaaten beſchreybung […]. 2 Bde. Zürich: Christoph Froschauer 1548. Scan by sidonius 18:10, 3 March 2007 (UTC).
Licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

"Herrliberger Solothurn" by Emanuel Büchel - Hermann Spiess-Schaad: David Herrliberger. Zürcher Kupferstecher und Verleger 1697–1777.
Verlag Hans Rohr: Zürich 1983.. Licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

By 1481, the town had obtained full membership in the Swiss Confederation and from 1530 to 1792 it was the seat of the French ambassador to Switzerland. It was during this period that the city’s finest architecture was built and these buildings line the streets today.

Solothurn’s Rathaus (town hall) is built in the ornate Mannerist style, but the building which was begun in 1476 was constructed in many successive stages over the centuries. The narrow façade you see today, with onion domes capping each side was completed in 1711.

The Altes Zeughaus which is a large four-story Baroque building dating from 1609-14 and is the former City Arsenal, has a pulley system in a large arched window that was originally used to lift heavy arms from the ground level to the upper floors. The Zeughaus now houses a museum of interesting historic military items including uniforms worn by the guards of the French Kings. Interestingly, many of the guards came from Solothurn.

above photo source

As usual, we gravitated to the magnificent cathedral of Solothurn. Not too far from the market square, St. Ursen Kathedrale is set high on a hill and approached by wide steps and flanked by ornate fountains. It is a monumental Neo-classical building and the façade shows influence from the Italian Baroque. Corinthian columns frame a frieze portraying the city’s patron saints Ursus and Victory who were martyred in Solothurn by the Romans, for refusing to worship Emperor Maximum.

St. Ursus of Solothurn was venerated in the city by the 5th century and the first church on the site was built in the Early Middle Ages. A Romanesque church might have existed, but there is no written or archeological evidence to support or refute it. The first documented record of a Gothic church comes from 1294. By the 18th century the Gothic church was in a poor condition, and in 1762 a tower collapsed forcing the city to begin planning to replace the building.

From 1762 to 1773, Gaetano Matteo Pisoni from the Ticino region, and later his nephew, Paolo Antonio Pisoni, designed and built the new cathedral. It is this cathedral you see today.

The interior of the cathedral is white, allowing for the elaborate stucco moldings, sculptural space and delicate decorative gold-leaf scrollwork on the decorative paintings and altars to capture your attention. Such a quiet totally white space is rare in our experience of Roman Catholic churches in Europe and we enjoyed the calm serene space.

The main organ and choir organ were ordered in 1763 from the organ builder Victor Ferdinand Bosshard from Baar. They were delivered in 1772.

Switzerland is filled with ancient towns that tell the long historic tale of this amazing country. Solothurn is one of those towns and well worth exploring when you are on your journey through the Swiss Confederation (Confoederatio Helvetica). Especially on Market Day!

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Thun Switzerland - Historic Market Town and Holiday Resort on the Thunersee

7/23/2015

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When we arrived in Thun, Switzerland, the historic market town turned out to be as lovely as I had hoped. Jim had asked me over and over for months before we left on this trip….. Why are we going to Thun? I had picked it on a map, researched it on the internet and hoped for the best. My vision of our time there, visiting Thun Castle, taking a boat tour of The Thunersee, eating alongside the River Aare and walking the old historic center turned out to be as enjoyable as I had assured Jim it would be. Whew!

The area of what is now the city of Thun was inhabited since the Neolithic Age (mid-3rd millennium BC). During the early Bronze Age there were a number of settlements along the lake shore and Aare River.

The region of Thun became a part of the Holy Roman Empire in 1033, and the powerful Zahringen family, centered in Bern, brought the unruly nobles of central Switzerland under their control.

Medieval Thun’s origins go back to 1191, when Berthold V, Duke of Zahringen built a castle on the hill above the river Aare. The historic old town spreads out below the castle and in 1264 Thun received city rights.

Thun was connected to the railway network of Switzerland in 1859 and became the holiday getaway it is today. The lovely historic facades throughout the old town and above the Aare River date all the way from the medieval times through the Belle Epoch era. There were so many picturesque views and we took the opportunity to photograph some of our favorites!

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Gruyeres is not just for Cheese - The Chateau de Gruyeres

7/3/2015

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I knew at some point during our journey through Switzerland, that we would find the perfect “Heidi” village. It would be filled with alpine charm, traditional chalets, the ringing of cow-bells and scenery straight out of “The Sound of Music”. You will find just that scene as you enter the small town of Gruyeres Switzerland. Yes….the place where that yummy cheese is made.

But this time, we weren’t there to learn about cheese making. We were there to visit the famous Chateau de Gruyeres which presides at the top of hill overlooking the beautiful medieval village of the same name.

The castle and town are located in the Canton of Fribourg and sits in the foothills of the Alps. The name Gruyeres was inspired by the French word for Crane “Grue” which was the heraldic crest of the Counts of Gruyeres.

Twenty Counts of Gruyeres ruled the area from the 11th to the middle of the 16th century and they built their imposing castle between 1270 and 1282. Originally, the castle was built in the typical square plan of the fortifications used in Savoy, but by the end of the 15th century, the Counts of Gruyeres entered their “Golden Age” of valor during the Burgundy war and modernization works done at that time turned the fortress into a stately residence.

Above Photo Credit: http://www.la-gruyere.ch/en/gruyeres-castle.html

The castle remained the property of the Counts of Gruyeres until the bankruptcy of Count Michel in 1554. His creditors; the Cantons (states) of Fribourg and Bern shared his earldom. From 1555 to 1798 the castle became residence to the bailiffs and then to the prefects sent by the Canton of Fribourg. The Baroque interior of the castle reflects this period and you will not be disappointed as it is one of the more beautifully restored castle interiors in Switzerland.

The castle tour starts at The Esplanade which was originally a large, open, level area outside the fortress meant to provide clear fields of fire for the fortress' guns . It was built in the second half of the 15th century by Count Francois 1st and his son Louis.

The Courtyard with its wooden galleries was constructed in 1586-1587.

The Spiral Staircase which is located in the tower was built toward the end of the 15th century.

The Kitchen and Guard Room

The Burgundian Room holds suits of armor and three mourning capes of the Golden Fleece Order. The capes are part of the war booty captured during the battle of Morat against Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. Charles the bold at the moment of the battle was celebrating the anniversary of the death of his father.

The Bailiffs Room would probably have been used by the 50 bailiffs that resided in the castle from 1550 to 1798 as a large study. The foliage that decorates the walls was painted by Master Cuen in 1685-1686 for Jean-Jacques-Joseph d’Alt and his wife. The bestiary featured in the frieze includes the heraldic Crane.

The Room of the Counts is dedicated to the last counts of Gruyeres. Jean 1st (1500 – 1514), Jean II (1514 – 1539) and their wives, Count Michel (1539 – 1554), Father Pierre – illegitimate son of Jean I, and Sir Challant, son-in-law of Jean II.

The canopy bed is 15th century. The tapestries representing Old Testament stories are 16th century and the iron chest safe is dated 1730.

The Room of the Beautiful Lucy is named after a legend. According to the legend, Lucy was a beautiful young woman of simple origins who was loved by Count Jean II and the room is dedicated to her. The tapestry above the bed representing Alexander’s victory and is based on a cartoon by Charles le Brun and is dated about 1700. The tapestry above the fireplace of Ulysses meeting Hector in the city of Troy is dated about 1600.

In 1849, the castle was sold to the Bovy and Balland families who stayed at the castle during the summertime and restored it with the help of their artist friends.

Corot’s Room is named after Camille Corot, the famous French artist who painted the four medallion paintings in the room. Around 1852, Daniel Bovy asked his painter friends to decorate the 18th century panels. Berthelemy Menn painted two medallions and H. Saltzmann painted one other. H. Baron, F. Furet and A. Leleux and his wife also contributed to the room. The sideboard and chairs are in the Louis XV style.

The Music Room’s paneling and furniture are in the style of Louis XV. The pianoforte was made by J.W. Braschoss of Geneva, for famous composer Franz Liszt about 1835. The clock dates about 1760.

Furet’s Room is delicately decorated with garlands and rustic paintings by artists Francis Furet and Jules Crosnier dated around 1900. The furniture is in the style of Louis XV.

The Hunting Room

The Baroque Room displays tapestries with forest scenery made in Flanders at the end of the 17th century. The windows have heraldic stained glass: the Castella crest 1597 and the Techtermann-Python crest 1595

The Knights Room was given its name in honor of the wall decoration painted between 1852 and 1862 by the artist friends of Daniel Bovy. The cycle represents the Gruyeres legends and the history of the Counts of Gruyeres. Cranes representing the Gruyeres crest adorn the coffered ceiling. The wood furniture was made by Auguste Ansermot at the end of the 19th century.

The French Style Landscape Garden was designed in the French geometrical style by the Balland family at the end of the 19th century. The site has been a garden since Medieval times. The wall and towers of the ramparts that enclose the garden were rebuilt in the 15th century.

Before you leave the castle, you must walk out on the Esplanade and around the side of the castle to the tiny Chapel of St. John.

The Chapel of St. John was built near the castle in the 13th century. In 1480, Count Louis had the chapel renovated, particularly the central bay area with the stained glass windows which were made in the workshop of Bolaz in Vevey. The windows show the Baptism of Christ and the Pieta. The windows also portray the arms and figures of Louis de Gruyeres and his wife. Fragments of paintings are visible on the vault and sidewalls. Wooden sculptures of the Pieta and Mary Magdalene are from the second half of the 15th century. The Altarpiece of Charles V, was created about 1530.

It is obvious from the petite size of the chapel that it was meant originally for the exclusive use of the family of the Counts of Gruyeres.

From the time you enter Chateau de Gruyeres, you will be taken back in time to imagine castle life in Switzerland’s historic past. Be sure to visit this amazing castle before you go off to learn how to make Gruyeres Cheese!

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