Can you ever have too many castles? Not according to Mary Queen of Scots! When Mary needed to get out of town, she certainly had boatload of castles and palaces to choose from!
Fortunately for us, we followed in her horse’s hoof-steps and found our way to Craigmillar Castle, former home of the Barons Craigmillar, the Preston and Gilmour families, and in 1563 and 1566, the place Mary Queen of Scots chose for at least two rural retreats.
If the walls of this ancient rambling ruin could talk, they would have some pretty exciting tales to tell! That is why, while not restored, but beautifully preserved, this turned out to be one of our favorite castles!
Fortunately for us, we followed in her horse’s hoof-steps and found our way to Craigmillar Castle, former home of the Barons Craigmillar, the Preston and Gilmour families, and in 1563 and 1566, the place Mary Queen of Scots chose for at least two rural retreats.
If the walls of this ancient rambling ruin could talk, they would have some pretty exciting tales to tell! That is why, while not restored, but beautifully preserved, this turned out to be one of our favorite castles!
Craigmillar started life as a countryside medieval era tower-house sometime between the late 14th and late 15th century. The Preston family were first granted land in the area by King David II in 1342. Archeologists have not been able to confirm any specific date so far, but it is believed the tower-house was in place by 1425. Over the next 350 years, subsequent owners added on additional sections creating a maze of rooms, spiral staircases and connecting halls.
What fun Jim and I had exploring this castle with all its nooks and crannies. Yes, we are just big kids sometimes!
What fun Jim and I had exploring this castle with all its nooks and crannies. Yes, we are just big kids sometimes!
Outer Courtyard Gate
Inner Courtyard Gate (above & below)
Inner Courtyard (above & below)
The Tower-house is located at the heart of the castle compound and was truly a defensive fortress, almost 56 feet tall (17 meters), with thick walls, crossbow slits and later pistol holes. It has a defensive main entrance doorway located behind the tower on the cliff-side which would have been protected by a deep chasm. The castle entrance could only be reached by a wooden bridge. The bridge was removed and the chasm filled in when the curtain-wall was built (probably around 1453).
Of course, the spiral staircases corkscrew in a clockwise direction, constructed to give the “right-handed” defenders the advantage!
The Preston coat of arms hangs over the original tower doorway and a slit is located right next to the door where visitors would have presented their credentials (or been attacked?). As you can imagine, during those times security made the difference between life and death.
The Interior of the tower would have contained an entrance hall, cellars and basement on the ground-floor. The Laird's Hall with a kitchen to serve it and the principal bedchamber were on the first floor, and family chambers on the top two floors.
Entrance Hall
Cellars
The Laird's Hall (above & below)
The Laird's Hall Kitchen Later turned into part of the Principal Bedroom (above & below)
The Principal Bedchamber - Possibly Queen Mary's Room (below)
Family Chambers
But the impressive tower-house architecture is just the beginning. Even as you explore the extensive castle compound, you should keep in mind the moments of monumental (and humble) history that played out in the rooms. In 1480, John Stewart, Earl of Mar who was brother of King James III was held prisoner at Craigmillar, accused of practicing witchcraft against the King. He was eventually moved to another location, where he was murdered by knife.
But the most compelling story is the one about Mary Queen of Scots…….
But the most compelling story is the one about Mary Queen of Scots…….
Back from France and happily surrounded by loyal supporters, one of which was Sir Simon Preston IV (Baron Craigmillar), who had been part of her court in France, the queen was invited (or most likely invited herself!) to spend time at Craigmillar Castle.
Mary’s first stay at Craigmillar included relaxing and pleasurable court activities typical to entertaining the Monarch and her retinue. The Preston family would have had lots of space and amenities to house the queen and her court. Some say she stayed in the tower (hence her "room" there), but many think she might have stayed in the East Range (Grange).
The East Range, was built in the 15th century and had been attached to the Tower-House to add more space to the laird’s apartments and additional private chambers, and a gallery. Today the roof is long gone, but you can walk through the basement storerooms, bake-house, and even a prison. A long gallery would have provided a place for the owner and guests to walk in bad weather. The great hall on the West side of the tower may have been built by this time as well.
Mary’s first stay at Craigmillar included relaxing and pleasurable court activities typical to entertaining the Monarch and her retinue. The Preston family would have had lots of space and amenities to house the queen and her court. Some say she stayed in the tower (hence her "room" there), but many think she might have stayed in the East Range (Grange).
The East Range, was built in the 15th century and had been attached to the Tower-House to add more space to the laird’s apartments and additional private chambers, and a gallery. Today the roof is long gone, but you can walk through the basement storerooms, bake-house, and even a prison. A long gallery would have provided a place for the owner and guests to walk in bad weather. The great hall on the West side of the tower may have been built by this time as well.
East Range (above & below)
Bakehouse & Storerooms (above & Below)
Main Entrance to East Range - Prison Entrance Lower Left Opening (also below)
Commoners Prison (above & below)
The atmosphere at Craigmillar would have been quite different a few years later, during Mary's second three-week visit. The castle was used as a place of solace and peace to a depressed queen. By then, the politics and loyalties had begun to change and unbeknownst to the queen a royal intrigue was being hatched just a few rooms away.
During this unhappy time in her turbulent and tragic life, she reportedly spent days in her rooms at Craigmillar, deep in despair over the murder of her beloved secretary Rizzio, her disastrous marriage to Lord Darnley, and precarious royal position.
Even more disastrous for Mary; during this time, her host, Simon Preston IV (Baron Craigmillar) was plotting to murder her husband Lord Darnley. The Plot was called the “Craigmillar Bond”, and was launched a few months later. Lord Darnley was blown up in his own house and his strangled body was found blown across the yard.
With Queen Mary’s fortunes falling, the long friendship between Sir Simon Preston and the queen ended. In fact, Sir Preston, as Lord Provost of Edinburgh, took the queen under guard and delivered her to the island stronghold of Lochleven for imprisonment.
During this unhappy time in her turbulent and tragic life, she reportedly spent days in her rooms at Craigmillar, deep in despair over the murder of her beloved secretary Rizzio, her disastrous marriage to Lord Darnley, and precarious royal position.
Even more disastrous for Mary; during this time, her host, Simon Preston IV (Baron Craigmillar) was plotting to murder her husband Lord Darnley. The Plot was called the “Craigmillar Bond”, and was launched a few months later. Lord Darnley was blown up in his own house and his strangled body was found blown across the yard.
With Queen Mary’s fortunes falling, the long friendship between Sir Simon Preston and the queen ended. In fact, Sir Preston, as Lord Provost of Edinburgh, took the queen under guard and delivered her to the island stronghold of Lochleven for imprisonment.
Portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her husband Lord Darnley
Photo above courtesy of Wikipedia Commons http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mary_Stuart_James_Darnley.jpg
By the next generation, the Preston family had faded from the city’s political scene so the castle and the Barony were quietly sold to the Gilmore family in 1660.
Sir John Gilmour was a lawyer and loyal supporter of Charles II when the king was restored in 1661. For his loyalty, Sir John was made the President of the Court of Sessions. In order to create a residence worthy of his status, he began a grand restoration on what was the old 15th century hall, and built a fine two-story house known now as the West Range (or Grange).
We walked through what must have been three impressive rooms in those days. The large hall would have had a decorative painted wooden ceiling and large windows with views. Unfortunately, the wooden ceiling is gone and the windows are all filled in with stone now.
We walked through what must have been three impressive rooms in those days. The large hall would have had a decorative painted wooden ceiling and large windows with views. Unfortunately, the wooden ceiling is gone and the windows are all filled in with stone now.
The Great Hall
Beyond the great hall, there was a small withdrawing room. At one time it would have been timber paneled. The upper floor of the West Range is gone now, but there would have been four private rooms with beautiful views.
The Withdrawing Room (above & below)
The kitchen at the other end of the hall had a huge fireplace with graceful lines.
Kitchen (above & below)
Naturally, since these great families entertained nobles and royalty, they had to have a great wines ready to pour. Underneath the withdrawing room was the wine cellar which of course we had to check out. No wine in there!
Wine Cellar
The Gilmour family lived in Craigmillar Castle until the middle of the 18th century when they finally moved to the more “modern” Inch House and left the beautiful ancient castle to fall eventually into a romantic ruin.
The West Grange Exterior
The views from the tower-house turret walk of this beautiful ruin are incredible. We were able to look across the rolling green fields surrounding the castle and could even see Edinburgh castle far in the distance. We also had a perfect view down into the skeletons of the two castle wings and the large courtyard enclosed by its curtain-wall. I could easily image Queen Mary and her retinue “taking the air” and walking through the courtyard. We could also see the small round dovecote anchoring one corner of the long wall.
Our last stop before leaving was the small chapel dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury and built for personal use by the family. It is roofless and closed off with iron grills, but you can peer through the window openings at the interior stone graves.
Strangely, even though the castle is not restored, you get a real feel for the centuries of familes who lived and worked in the castle, which for me indicates what a special place it really is. Be sure to visit it!
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